Finding a factory is the step most new brands find hardest. Search results are full of directories, agents and resellers, and it isn’t always clear who actually sews the garments.
We’re a manufacturer, so we see this from the other side: the messages that lead to a good first order, and the ones that don’t. Here’s how to find the right maker and how to give them what they need.
Three kinds of supplier
A factory cuts, sews and finishes the garments itself. You talk to the people making your order, and the price has no middle layer.
An agent or trading company takes your order and places it with factories. A good agent saves you time and checks quality for you. You pay for that in the price, and you may never know which factory made your order.
A print shop or decorator buys blank garments and prints or embroiders them. That’s quick for a few pieces, but you can’t change the garment itself.
For a brand with its own designs, a factory, or an agent you trust, is usually the right choice.
Where to look
- Search with the garment and the word “manufacturer”. “Leggings manufacturer” or “hoodie manufacturer” finds factories faster than “clothing supplier”.
- Trade shows. Fabric and sportswear shows bring factories to you, and ISPO is the best known for sportswear.
- Supplier directories. They’re useful for a list of names, but check each one separately. A listing proves nothing.
- LinkedIn. Search for the factory and the people who run it. Real businesses have a history.
- Other founders. Ask brands you know who makes for them. Many will tell you.
Local or overseas
A local maker costs more per piece but is easier to visit, faster to ship from, and simpler for small changes. An overseas factory, in Pakistan, Portugal, Turkey or Asia, usually costs less per piece and often makes a wider range of garments, but you’ll rely on samples and video calls.
Many brands sample locally for speed and produce overseas for price. Others do the reverse once they’re selling well.
What to send the factory
A tech pack is the instruction sheet for your garment. The more complete it is, the more accurate your quote and the fewer changes on the sample.
| Part | What it shows |
|---|---|
| Flat drawings | The front, back and side of the garment, with every seam, pocket and trim |
| Measurements | A spec sheet with each size’s measurements, and the tolerance allowed |
| Fabric | The fabric type and weight, and any lining |
| Colors | Pantone references for every color |
| Artwork | Each logo and print, with its size and position |
| Trims | Zips, drawcords, buttons, elastic |
| Labels and packaging | Neck label, care label, hang tag, polybag |
If you don’t have a tech pack, many factories will start from less. We can start a sample from a clear reference image and a few notes, and the tech pack gets built from what you approve.
Questions to ask every manufacturer
Send each factory the same tech pack and the same questions, so you can compare the answers.
- What’s the minimum per style, and can sizes be mixed?
- What does a sample cost, and how long does it take?
- How long does production take after the sample is approved?
- What are the payment terms, and how can I pay?
- What are the shipping terms, and who pays import duty?
- Do you sell or reuse customers’ designs? Will you sign an NDA?
- Can I see the factory on a video call?
EXW, FOB and DDP on a quote
The shipping terms on a quote decide who pays for what after the garments are made. These are called Incoterms. Three come up most often in clothing:
- EXW (ex works): the price covers the goods at the factory gate. You arrange and pay for everything after that.
- FOB (free on board): the factory delivers the goods onto the ship or plane. You pay freight from there, plus duties.
- DDP (delivered duty paid): the supplier delivers to your door and pays the import duties and taxes. There’s nothing to pay when it arrives.
DDP is the simplest for a new brand, because the price you’re quoted is the price landed. Most of our bulk orders ship DDP by DHL, FedEx or UPS, and we confirm shipping terms on every quote.
Red flags
- No sample before bulk, or a refusal to make one of your design.
- A demand for 100% payment up front.
- No video call, or a factory that’s never available to show the floor.
- Vague answers on minimums, timing or shipping terms.
- Photos of the “factory” that turn up on other suppliers’ websites.
One red flag isn’t always a reason to walk away. Two usually is.
What to check on the sample
- Fabric: weight, stretch, and how it feels against the skin.
- Measurements: measure the sample against your spec sheet, point by point.
- Print and color: compare against your Pantone references, in daylight.
- Stitching: loose threads, uneven seams, puckering.
- Labels: position, wording, and the care and fabric details.
- Wash test: wash it a few times and check it again.
Write every change down and send it in one message, with photos. A clear list gets a better second sample.
Questions
How do I find a manufacturer with a low minimum?
Look for small and mid-size factories rather than large mills, and ask the minimum first. Our minimum is 50 pieces per style, with sizes mixed.
Should I ask a manufacturer to sign an NDA?
If your design is new, it’s reasonable to ask. A good factory won’t mind. We sign one on request.
What is DDP shipping?
Delivered duty paid. The supplier delivers to your address and pays the import duties and taxes, so there’s nothing to pay when the parcel arrives.
How many samples will I need?
Usually one or two per style. The clearer the tech pack, the fewer rounds it takes.
Can I visit the factory?
Ask. Many factories welcome visits. A live video call is a good first step, and it costs nothing.
When you have a design, send it to us with your quantities and we’ll come back with a price and lead time. Read how ordering works for each step, and our guide on how to start a clothing brand if this is your first range.
